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March
25,2010

Profile: The Green Beanery

Author | Marc Wortman

greenbeaneryoutside

The Green Beanery
Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Green Beanery website

I recently visited Canada’s largest store for coffee equipment and green unroasted coffee beans.  Located in downtown Toronto on the corner of Bloor and Bathurst, the Green Beanery is all of a cafe where you can buy a cup of coffee roasted, ground, and brewed on site; a retail store featuring the country’s largest supply of coffee making equipment including home roasters, grinders, and brewers; and featuring the country’s largest selection of green unroasted beans.


For home roasters
Toronto is one of the world’s most multicultural cities and people of many different ethnicities are used to roasting their own coffee.  For them and for the hobbyist home coffee roaster, the Green Beanery offers…
greencoffee

…just a few different varieties of green unroasted coffee.  In fact, what you see here is probably half of the total amount they offer.  There wasn’t a coffee growing region in the world that I didn’t find represented in the Green Beanery’s offering.  They’ve even assembled some great “mixed packs”, such as one from Latin America, one suited for espressos, etc.

I tinker with home roasting myself, and picked up a pound of unroasted Nicaragua Maragogype, on the recommendation of head roaster Jason.  Green coffee keeps for about two years and only starts to expire when roasted so although I’m currently working through a coffee overstock at home, these beans will keep until I’m ready to roast them.

Non-Profit – Specialty Coffee
I met with owner and founder Larry Soloman. I had two main questions: how does a retail shop like the Green Beanery act as a non-profit, and how does it compete on the retail front when it’s a stone’s throw away from a Starbucks, Tim Horton’s, Second Cup, and at least two independent cafes?

To answer the first question, Larry gave me an interesting recent-history lesson to help me understand the coffee crisis in the world today.  Only so many decades back, the few big retail companies that mass-market coffee mainly through the grocery channel demanded a specific profile of bean.  Something that could be mass-harvested and mass-sold.

This commoditized the coffee bean, and when something is commoditized, sales go to the people that produce it the cheapest.  Those people set the commodity’s price and if you can’t produce it that cheaply AND feed your family, your family doesn’t get fed.  If that wasn’t bad enough for today’s coffee farmer, Vietnam has emerged as a brand new coffee producing giant, enough that it surpassed Columbia in 2009 to become the world’s second largest producer of coffee.  Without demand for coffee changing, supply skyrocketed with the addition of Vietnamese coffee, making the commodity price of coffee drop further.  The winners: us, the consumers.  The losers: the coffee farmers that are supplying us with coffee.

The Green Beanery does its part to aid in the coffee crisis by dealing in “specialty coffees”, something other than the grocery store or fast-food offering.  If you want a Guatemalan Antigua coffee, you won’t find it at Dunkin Donuts, you’ll find it at the Green Beanery.  By promoting and mainly selling specialty coffees, they sell something for which a premium is charged over the commodity price.  This lets coffee farmers return to the specialty and uniqueness of their region’s coffee and not just compete in a can’t-win global commodity market.

Specialty Coffee On-Site

gbroaster

The Green Beanery differs from its “competitors” on the same block by roasting specialty coffees from around the world on-site.  Since coffee doesn’t start losing its freshness until it’s roasted, you get nothing but fresh coffee which you can enjoy in their open cafe area.  Everything served brewed at the Green Beanery was roasted and ground on-site.  They keep inventory at a head office and warehouse located just a few blocks away from the retail shop.

The Coffee Crisis
Ever since meeting David Cook at the Fire Roasted Coffee Company, today’s coffee crisis is becoming clearer to me.  I empathize with today’s coffee farmer more than ever because I’ve spent years perfecting my coffee making at home, but never once gave a thought to the farmer that lives in poverty and has nothing else to offer the world except coffee that I love and take for granted.  The Green Beanery raises awareness of this situation, and helped open my eyes to the problem a little more.  I appeal to you to spend a couple dollars more for a pound of coffee and buy it Fair Trade.  I realize now that it’s the least that I can do.

March
18,2010

Starbucks House Blend

Author | Marc Wortman

The last couple weeks, my appetite for coffee has been bigger than my shelf space.  OK, I have plenty of shelf space but it’s best to buy only what you need for the next 2-3 weeks of coffee drinking.  That will ensure what you have is always fresh or almost done.

Part of my overstock is the often overlooked Starbucks House Blend.  I was always confused by how many blends of coffee Starbucks would tout, such as their Pike Place and Cafe Verona.  Don’t get me wrong, I haven’t had one I didn’t like, I just feel when you promote so many blends, you take some spotlight off of the one that’s supposed to be your signature, and that’s the House Blend.


I bought a pound of it a couple weeks back and guess what, it’s still awesome.  If you’ve never had it,  it is a blend of Latin American beans.  It is smoother than many coffees, or as Starbucks calls it, “Medium” compared to their “Bold” and “Extra Bold”.  So it won’t overpower whatever you enjoy it with, but still not as mellow as their Breakfast Blend which is for those who like something milder for their first cup of the day.

The House Blend is smooth but at the same time, has a lot of flavor in my opinion.  I think they started blending other coffees for particular tastes, but the House Blend is meant to be their signature blend so that it’s what you’ll find when a generic “Starbucks coffee” is being served to you in restaurants or through office services.  While the more touted blends have taken some spotlight off it, I have enjoyed coming back to the House Blend and learning I still like it.

In fact, I would say to the coffee lover that’s been stuck on a particular blend, region, or source for coffee that they should try this one again.  It’s a great starting point, from which you can go bolder or mellower.  Either way, I think you’ll agree that this is always dependable and as I’m learning this week, great to come back to.  Thanks to my overstock problem, I’ll probably be having plenty of it in the next week.

Learn more about Starbucks House Blend.

Categorized In | Buying Coffee Questions

March
15,2010

Green Mountain Half-Million Dollar Donation

Author | Marc Wortman

At the beginning of this month, the nonprofit organization Coffee Kids announced that  Green Mountain Coffee Roasters, Inc. has committed almost a half-million dollars – yes, $500,000 – over the next four years to fund scholastic projects in Nicaragua.  In the coffee supply chain, there’s nobody that has it worse than the coffee farmer and Coffee Kids ensures that money gets to where it’s needed, coffee-farming families and their communities.

The Green Mountain Coffee Roasters is a public company (NASDAQ: GMCR) based out of Vermont.  They sell coffee and equipment over their website and through some retail channels.  Coffee Kids is a nonprofit organization based out of Sante Fe who works closely with partners in coffee-growing communities to create programs that improve the integrity of the community.  Nicaragua is in particular need of the investment in education where today roughly one in four children are caught in a cycle of poverty and are not in the education system.

“Nicaragua is one of the countries with the greatest need in the Western
Hemisphere. As part of our mission, we are dedicated to helping the
families at coffee’s origin,” said Green Mountain’s Rick Peyser. “Coffee Kids helps families reduce their dependence on coffee and supports innovative
development efforts in coffee-farming communities.”

I think this is amazing news. There’s alot to be argued about corporate philanthropy and whether a company gives to the CEO’s favorite cause or to something relevant to what the company does.  Green Mountain knows the growing regions because it buys from them.  They are aware of the needs and let’s face it, they profit while coffee farmers suffer poverty.  This giving back isn’t just generous, it’s logical.  Awesome on Green Mountain!

Learn more about Green Mountain’s donation to Coffee Kids.
Learn more about Coffee Kids.
Learn more about the Green Mountain Coffee Roasters company.

March
11,2010

Profile: Fire Roasted Coffee Company

Author | Marc Wortman

The Fire Roasted Coffee Company
London, Ontario, Canada
Fire Roasted Coffee website

I recently visited this roastery and came out about twice as coffee-smart.  For even the casual coffee drinker, there was some great insight that I want to share.  Check it out!

The owner
David Cook started out as a merchandiser for a major grocery retailer.  His background, right up until an executive position with the retailer, is culinary and the man loves coffee.  He experimented with roasting his own coffee beans at home using simple household means, eventually graduating up to a three-pound roaster.

David started roasting for the neighborhood at garage sales and eventually bagged some small local accounts.  The people loved the coffee and the attention to detail from somebody with a culinary background.  Eventually, the home roasting “business” was rivaling his 9-5 job in pay.  David took the plunge and quit his job to grow the Fire Roasted Coffee Company.

Focus on roasting
diedrich

David brought some interesting things to my attention.  I don’t buy coffee in a grocery store but I do buy it from big-scale roasters.  A big retailer like Starbucks knows coffee well and has a nice operation for its mass.  But there’s a premium to coffee that comes with more careful roasting.

A big-scale operation will automate because it means less human attention and of course, that saves money.  But if you put an actual roaster on it, that person can roast to perfection with an appreciation for changes in consistency both in climate and the bean itself from one batch to another.  There’s a science to roasting and it’s inconsistent enough from day to day and bean to bean, that hand-roasted attention comes through in the cup.  You lose this consistency when you profile a region’s bean but then automate its roasting instead of paying close attention to it.  The most meticulous home coffee roasters never leave their machine while the coffee is roasting.

You’d assume that means a premium built into the price too.  Wrong.  A pound of coffee at FRCC costs a few dollars less than buying at Starbucks.

Care for customer education
As soon as you walk in, there’s a heavy focus on “coffee education”.  The people who roast coffee for FRCC are also the same people interacting with customers and working in this very transparent environment.  To answer customers’ questions, why not have the very people that roasted the customer’s coffee.

It couldn’t be more transparent, it’s wide open.  FRCC pulls the curtain back so you can see everything from the 30 burlap sacks of green, unroasted coffee from most every growing region in the world, the big Diedrich roasting machine that roasts 20 pounds of coffee at a time, and the weighing and packaging station.

patandpackaging

Former customer, current roaster Patrick Dunham overseeing 30 coffees imported from around the world.

From the packaging table, it gets put on the shelf and you buy it in plain view of the whole operation.  From burlap sack to retail pack, the whole place is wide open.  What else is there to see other than the coffee farm itself?

Coffee is sold and imported raw.  It begins to expire once it’s roasted so it’s important to have the roasting operation close.  FRCC lets you see everything you may have taken for granted in just how important good roasting is to the coffee in your cup.

Care for coffee
Talking to David, I got the sense more than once that it isn’t about making money, it’s about love of coffee.  If there was anything I got the feeling bothered David about even being a coffee merchant, it’s for the very poor conditions of coffee growers.  In the coffee supply chain, they have it worse than anybody.  FRCC boasts the largest local selection of Fair Trade coffees.  Click here to read my previous post on Fair Trade coffees.

David doing some heavy thinking about what coffee I should take home.  In the end, their Ethiopian Harrar and Papua New Guinea, both Fair Trade coffees.

David doing some heavy thinking about what coffee I should take home. In the end, their Ethiopian Harrar and Papua New Guinea, both Fair Trade coffees.

David ran me through photos of a recent tour through El Salvador and Guatemala to visit some of their farms.  Their coffee is amazing but the living conditions of locals is just not good.  You’ll hear me say “life’s too short for bad coffee”, and assume at least the coffee is good in these growing regions.  But David reminds me that in these countries, the absolute worst of the worst coffee cultivated is sold to the locals.  They drink the worst of their own coffee.  But in the grand scheme of things, that’s very much beside the point, conditions are terrible all around, full families in small dwellings with limited amenities.

FRCC’s Fair Trade coffee ensures a set price for the coffee farmer, fair wages for their workers, and development projects for the growing area.  I would appeal to coffee drinkers to pay a few dollars more a pound just to make sure that aid gets to the people who toil to get that coffee in our cups.  But as I mentioned, there’s no price premium.  Again, a pound of coffee from FRCC is a few dollars less than other local sources.  Imagine that…giving to an important charity that produces something you love by paying less for that thing.

Check out the Fire Roasted Coffee website.  You can order coffee right from their site, and I encourage anybody in southwestern Ontario to check out the roasting operation for themselves.

Categorized In | Buying Coffee Questions

March
2,2010

What Coffee Habits Say About You

Author | Marc Wortman

In a new book The You Code, body language experts Judi James and James Moore take a look at what your coffee drinking habits say about you, your self-esteem, your stress level in life, and even your sex life. I’ll withhold my comments until you get to the bottom.

The espresso drinker – They call the espresso “the unfiltered cigarette of the coffee drinking world”. Espresso drinkers are moody, hard-bitten and hard working, into leadership and fast goals. They don’t suffer fools, are hard living and prone to “night-time shenanigans, followed by a rather louche attempt at day time repair”.

The black coffee drinker – This drinker practices minimalism and takes a no-frills, direct approach to life. Quiet and moody but prone to brief bursts of extroversion. “A difficult but potentially rewarding friend, colleague or partner,” James and Moore conclude.

The latte drinker – Typically metrosexuals or cuddly-toy collectors, latte drinkers are pleasers obsessed with being liked.

The cappuccino drinker – Extroverted, optimistic.   Like their drink, they are all froth and bubble, bored by detail and liking material objects. “Freud would have a field day here,” write James and Moore. “Cappuccino froth gives the tongue the mother of all workouts and is all to do with the physicality of the experience rather than the basic consumption of the beverage.” The cappuccino drinker enjoys sex but is easily bored by an unimaginative partner.

The non-coffee drinker – Frightened of coffee equals frightened of life, say James and Moore. If the taste of coffee puts you off you really are a child, they say, and it’s time to join the world of grown ups. But there’s hope. “Twenty one days is all it will take to break your cycle of disgust and then you’ll be back in the real world.”

This information came to me second-hand so I confess right off the bat that I haven’t read the book and don’t know any more about its contents than what I’ve posted here.  But c’mon!  How can this be serious?  I’m a black coffee drinker, but that’s only a recent change to lose weight and start picking out coffee flavor accents easier.  So, the circumstances of what made me a black coffee drinker from the former cream-and-sugar type don’t jive with what the authors write about me today.

Oh well, maybe it’s meant to be funny but when you box people up by characteristic based on something as simple as their coffee drinking habits, I think you make alot of wrong and sometimes dangerous generalizations.

Categorized In | Coffee and You