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April
29,2010

Mommy, where does coffee come from?

Author | Marc Wortman

Check out my profile of the Ueshida Coffee Company (UCC) in Kona Hawaii.  It was more than just an excellent tour of a coffee farm in one of the coffee world’s most esteemed places.  It was a lesson in where coffee comes from.

While it was a great lesson from the UCC, there is more to the origin of coffee than this.  For example, it’s not everybody that realizes that all coffee originates from Ethiopia and Yemen.


The tale goes that farmers couldn’t figure out what was getting their goats so excited.  They called them “dancing goats” and realized it was because they were eating what we know today as the coffee cherry.  The farmers consulted with Sufi mystics to get advice.  These mystics found a beverage made with the leaves and cherries of this tree kept them alert for hours of prayer, but not didn’t intoxicate them.  Coffee was born, and our first example of people using it to carry out their long duties while staying alert.

For centuries, Arabia controlled the trade of coffee.  They would only sell it roasted or else treated in water so that it wasn’t fertile and couldn’t be planted elsewhere.  Coffee was largely made available to the world through the Mokha Port in Yemen (identified below).  Rumor has it that a pilgrim from mecca and a Dutch importer separately smuggled raw coffee beans to India and Amsterdam respectively, and Arabia could not stop experimental growing in regions around the world.  The coffee cat was out of the bag.

In the 17th century, it found its way to Europe and led to the popularity of coffee houses.  The drink was advertised as a way to sharpen the senses, rather than dull them like alcohol does.  This appealed to the studious, and coffee houses became meeting places for academics and the educated of all types.

Strangely, the biggest detractor to the growth of coffee were women who were employed in ale houses and noticed the drop in business.  In 1674, the Women’s Petition Against Coffee was drafted, warning men that coffee would make them “as barren as the desert out of which this unlucky berry has been imported”.  The best part is that by this point, there were prostitutes in the coffee houses so if the men couldn’t perform at home because they’d just come back from a coffee house, they’d tell the wives it was the coffee affecting them.  Supposedly, this is how the rumor began that coffee leads to impotence!

Coffee did not successfully grow just anywhere that farmers tried to plant it, but today, is grown in 70 different countries whose climate meets growing requirements.   Today, it is the world’s second most traded commodity after oil!  My opinion (maybe somebody’s said it before): ironic that oil and coffee are the world’s two most traded commodities, one fuels our technology, the other fuels our people.

For fans of the movie Bucket List, the most expensive coffee in the world comes from the excretion of the Asian palm civet, a small feline animal that loves to eat coffee cherries.  The civet’s system does not completely digest the cherry but apparently, adds a musky flavor that is a perfect complement to coffee.  It just means cleaning up after the civets and unfortunately, I assume the guy who has that job does not see very much of the price that this coffee fetches.  I don’t even want to know who discovered this coffee and why.

April
24,2010

Papua New Guinea coffee – awesome find

Author | Marc Wortman

On my recent visit to the Fire Roasted Coffee Company (FRCC) in Ontario, Canada, owner David Cook picked out a pound of their Papua New Guinea coffee for me to try.  I brought it home and threw it on top of my current coffee overstock at home.  This would be my first coffee from New Guinea and since it was hand-roasted by the FRCC and hand-picked by its owner, I knew if the quality of bean was good, that the brewed coffee would be outstanding.


And the verdict is that it was outstanding.  Papua New Guinea coffee is often overlooked, and you aren’t likely to find it even in most specialty coffee shops.  It simply does not have name appeal and this is what makes it a well-kept secret, because it’s a great coffee.  As advertised, it has a soft richness, sweet acidic flavor, and dark rich body.  In fact, I recommend it for anybody that enjoys a dark roast over a medium roast.  It is very well suited for the darker roasts, which I like personally.

And I felt good drinking it because FRCC’s Papua New Guinea coffee is grown organically and Fair Trade certified.  This means that the coffee farmer that is likely not living under the best of conditions received a fair minimum price for the coffee he harvested, and some small part of the coffee sold retail will go towards development projects in the growing region.

One more interesting point.  New Guinea has great growing conditions and these particular beans come from plants transplanted from the infamous Jamaican Blue Mountain region.  Along with Hawaiian Kona coffee, Jamaican Blue Mountain fetches a big premium.  Over time, Blue Mountain coffee has lost some of the consistency in how it’s processed and while it still costs as much, the quality varies and its reputation has been hurt.  These transplants to New Guinea do not come with the same premium on price so I can pretend I’m drinking coffee with the elite of the world but with better quality, more consistency, and of benefit to the coffee grower.

Learn more about the Fire Roasted Coffee Company’s Papua New Guinea coffee.

Peets Coffee and Tea carries a New Guinea coffee they call New Guinea Highlands.  They say in their opinion, it’s one of the BEST coffees in the world and they know coffee.  That’s a big claim since you simply don’t hear people talking about New Guinea coffee.

And for that lack of name appeal, the more retail-focused Starbucks Store does not carry a coffee from New Guinea.  It is understandable so consider trying this from Peets or if you would like to support the Fair Trade cause, check out trying this from the Fire Roasted Coffee Company.

Categorized In | Buying Coffee

April
19,2010

Eight Interesting Facts About Coffee

Author | Marc Wortman

Courtesy of the case of the documentary Black Coffee:

- 500 billion cups of coffee are consumed around the world each year.

- Only one cent of the price of a $2 cup of coffee goes to the grower

- It costs a full day’s wages for most coffee farmers to buy a cappuccino.

- Coffee is the world’s most widely taken legal drug and is the second most traded legal commodity on earth (after oil).

- Coffee helped foster the slave trade and many coffee workers are only marginally better off than their enslaved ancestors.

- Coffee provides a livelihood for 25 million people.  100 million more depend on it for survival.

- Coffee was roasted for the first time in the 1400s.

- Coffee traveled from Ethiopia to Arabia to Turkey and then to Europe.

April
17,2010

Interview with Tim Hortons Director

Author | Marc Wortman

Learn what Tim Hortons is doing to make a true difference in the developing countries that produce our coffee. I had the pleasure recently of speaking with Tim Faveri, Tim Hortons Director of Sustainability and Responsibility.

Tim Hortons is a Canada-based coffee company and the country’s largest food service operator, surpassing even McDonald’s.  Independent marketing firm Interbrand ranks it as the country’s tenth most valuable brand across all industries.  The company commands around 60% of the Canadian coffee market and if that doesn’t impress, Starbucks is second with less than 10% share.  If you live in Canada, you don’t need any of this explanation.  If you live in some parts of the US, you’re starting to see them crop up.

I recently saw the following TV commercial for Tim Hortons Coffee Partnership and I wanted to know more.  Only recently have I become aware of the crisis plaguing coffee farmers in the world today.  I consider it a responsibility while enjoying good coffee to learn what else I need to know and what I can do to help.  Tim Faveri had just completed a tour of the Partnership’s work in Central America, so my timing was good.

The Coffee Partnership was formed between Tim Hortons and the Hanns R. Neumann Stiftung Foundation (HRNS).  The HRNS was founded to bring together private sector partners, public sector partners and government to contribute to the sustainability of the coffee sectors of growing countries.  Tim Faveri explained that the Tim Hortons Coffee Partnership is very much in line with Tim Hortons’ “Making a True Difference” framework which up to that point had focused on giving back to local communities in Canada.  It made sense to turn focus to the producing regions and give back directly.

This is a very different approach from other large coffee companies who have instead used vehicles like Fair Trade to make sure farmers receive a fair price for their coffee and money is allocated to development projects in the growing regions.  Instead, Tim Hortons went to the source of the problem to provide direct aid.  Any aid program is good, whether certified or not, but the challenge for Tim Hortons is making sure people understand their unique approach to helping solve this problem.  You won’t find the Fair Trade logo slapped on their coffee cups, but they are helping in the most grassroots way.

For five years, Tim Hortons has been setting up three-year projects of different kinds.  The HRNS is already installed in these growing regions with a successful model of helping coffee farmers and the community in general.  In Guatemala for example, public education is provided up to third grade.  Tim Hortons was able to provide resources for a community to extend education to sixth grade.

I asked Tim Faveri who decides what specific help is needed most by the community.  He relayed a story from his most recent trip.  On one farm he visited, a family of five people live in a space roughly the size of Tim’s office and off of the equivalent of $2,000 of income for the family for the year.  Tim explains that in an example like this, basic amenities like functioning sanitation can be the first priority before other considerations like education and improvement in farming practices.  It depends on the needs of the specific farmer.  For each project, Partnership organizers agree on the key performance indicators that will be used to measure the project’s success.  In some cases, aid goes to support equality in the area by subsidizing farms owned by women.

When you drink Tim Hortons coffee, you can feel good about the fact that the company is giving back in meaningful ways to the coffee farmers in the areas where they source their coffee.  Tim Faveri has seen firsthand the help they need and having once run his own sustainability practice, has real passion to give back to these communities.  It’s good that we have coffee certifications, but unique and perhaps even more effective that a coffee giant like Tim Hortons goes right to the source with real grassroots support for the people and communities that give us the coffee we drink.

Learn more about the Tim Hortons Coffee Partnership.
Learn more about the Hanns R. Neumann Stiftung Foundation.

April
13,2010

Tips for getting through LOTS of coffee

Author | Marc Wortman

Good coffee is fresh coffee.  And coffee is only going to stay its freshest inside of (roughly) two to three weeks of when you bought it.  If you buy coffee from a grocery store instead of a good coffee shop or online source that takes this into consideration, then it’s less than three weeks.  Learn more about the Golden Rules of Good Coffee.


I go through approximately a pound of coffee every 2-3 weeks. That means I shouldn’t have much more than a pound in the house at any given time.  The problem is that for various reasons, I now have over SIX pounds of coffee in storage.  Here’s how I handled it and some tips on how you should manage your own overstock of coffee to ensure it stays fresh.

These tips are alternatives to freezing the coffee, as many people do.  Unfortunately, coffee is different from other perishable goods and freezing your coffee is NOT a good idea.  Learn more about Storing Coffee.  We need to be more creative.

1. Don’t roast your green coffee
Most coffee drinkers don’t roast their own beans at home, and I do so mostly as a hobby.  As you’ll see going through these tips, I have way more roasted than unroasted coffee.  Coffee only really starts going stale after it’s been roasted.  Unroasted coffee can keep for up to two years.  So if you’re working through a coffee overstock at home, put your green coffee at the back of the cupboard and focus on what’s been roasted.

In my stock, that includes a pound of Guatemalan coffee and a pound of Hawaiian coffee that I bought from the Fire Roasted Coffee Company (FRCC) on my first visit there.  It also includes a pound of Nicaraguan coffee recommended to me by the Green Beanery‘s roastmaster on my recent visit there.

2. Pick your spots.
A logistician will tell you that there are at least two ways of managing inventory: first-in first-out or last-in first-out.  You either want to brew the coffee that’s been roasted the longest so that you can enjoy it before it goes any more stale, or you want to brew the coffee that’s been roasted the most recently so that out of your overstock, you’ll at least get some amazing pots of fresh coffee.  If you brew in the order that the coffee has been roasted, it means you will KIND OF enjoy all of the coffee on hand.  If you brew what’s been roasted most recently, it means you will REALLY enjoy half of what’s on hand while the other half continues to get more stale before you get to it.

This one is to your personal taste.  Because I buy my coffee carefully and from good sources only, all of my coffee is relatively fresh.  For that reason, I’ll brew what’s been roasted the longest before it gets any more stale and will miss out on that amazing pot of the coffee that was more recently roasted.

For me, this includes working through two coffees right away.  First of all, the last of a pound of Starbucks House Blend that I’ve had for over a month now.  I really like this coffee and even after a month, it still tastes great to me, if not quite as fresh.  Following that, a pound of Kauai Coffee Company’s Blue Mountain Peaberry.  I bought this one right from the plantation itself so I’m confident it can sit a little longer before showing signs of starting to go stale.

3. Invest in a vacuum sealer.
Meant to keep perishable items lasting longer, this is my last resort for coffee I can’t get to within the next three weeks.  I have two pounds of coffee in this category, both of which recommended to me by David Cook of the FRCC.  One is a Kenyan coffee, the other an Ethiopian Harrar.  These remain in the FRCC’s retail and airtight packaging and even before giving them the benefit of opaque, room-temperature storage behind the cupboard door, I have vacuum-sealed the packages themselves.  This will add a few days to the fresh clock of these coffees as they are now truly airtight, if even there was some air escaping from the retail packaging.

4. Share
Oh yeah, there’s always the option to share with other coffee lovers.  Why let good coffee go bad when you know people that would help you enjoy it, and enjoy it while it’s still fresh?  I have a friend with a soft spot for New Guinea, and while it has nothing to do with their coffee necessarily, I knew he’d enjoy one of the more underappreciated coffees of the world, so I passed on a half-pound of it. This friend doesn’t have a grinder at home, so I had to grind it for him. Ground coffee expires at a faster rate than even roasted whole beans, so I’ve let him know he’s got to drink it fast!

Categorized In | Storing Coffee

April
10,2010

Profile: Ueshida Coffee Corp (Hawaii)

Author | Marc Wortman

From tree to cup…how coffee is grown and roasted!

The Ueshima Coffee Corporation (UCC) in Kona, Hawaii.

The Ueshima Coffee Corporation (UCC) in Kona, Hawaii.

First thing’s first.  Why is Hawaii Kona coffee so revered by coffee lovers from around the world?  First, the climate for optimal growing conditions.  The mountainous nature of Hawaii’s Big Island means high peaks and the cloud cover means a natural shade and consistent rain.  Second, you’re in the United States.  You can expect the same quality control and respect for reputation from Hawaii’s government as you would from any developed country in the world.

We were excited to take a personalized tour of the UCC, a tour of the plantation and lesson in how coffee is roasted before you buy it.

Our guide was Peggy Stevens, Assistant Manager of UCC's Sales and Production.

Our guide was Peggy Stevens, Assistant Manager of UCC's Sales and Production.

Here, Peggy is walking us through the plantation to show us how the “coffee cherry” grows.  After the coffee cherry is harvested, there is little the farmer can do to improve quality.  This means timing of when the cherries are picked is paramount.  The branch in the picture above shows a good example of cherries at different stages.  The only example missing is if the cherry is overripe and a brown color.  The cherries you see here range in color and ripeness from yellow (underripe) to dark red (fully ripe).  Before that, the cherries ripen from yellow to green to a light red.

Inside each coffee cherry is a seed, what we call the coffee bean.  The seed is in two parts, or two coffee beans.  One coffee cherry = two coffee beans.

Inside each coffee cherry is a seed, what we call the coffee bean. The seed is in two parts, or two coffee beans. One coffee cherry = two coffee beans.

Coffee cherries are picked en masse and processed so that the coffee cherry is “washed” off of the coffee beans inside.  The cherry skins are not wasted, but rather reworked into a natural fertilizer.  The dried seeds, green coffee beans, are sorted for inspection by Hawaii’s coffee 5-0 and those that make the grade are moved to be roasted.

Peggy drives us through rows and rows of coffee trees en route to the roasting station.

Peggy drives us through rows and rows of coffee trees en route to the roasting station.

These old-fashioned roasters are not the UCC's official coffee roasters.  These only roast up to a couple pounds at a time.

These old-fashioned roasters are not the UCC's official coffee roasters. These only roast up to a couple pounds at a time.

But innovation in coffee roasting is to suit volume, not quality of the roast.  The technology is actually very simple: keep the beans moving while over heat.  The wheel inside each of these maintains a steady turn.

This isn't the UCC's official way of measuring roast style, but I loved the poster.  It shows ten different intensities of roast and their standardized names.

This isn't the UCC's official way of measuring roast style, but I loved the poster. It shows ten different intensities of roast and their standardized names.

For our purposes in this small-batch roasting, this is a more realistic roast guide in that there are actual beans divided by roast style.  I still love that poster though!

For our purposes in this small-batch roasting, this is a more realistic roast guide in that there are actual beans divided by roast style. I still love that poster though!

For a more thorough explanation of roast style and how it affects the flavor in your cup, visit our page on Roast Style and Flavor.  Obviously very familiar with their own bean, the UCC has profiled it as best between a High and a City style roast.  Alot of Kona coffee is roasted to Medium.  I personally favor a darker roast but I didn’t want to leave the UCC’s own recommendations for their coffee, so I chose to roast mine at City, the dark end of their range.

Back to the coffee.  I have a dish of unroasted green coffee beans, harvested from the plantation and dried out prior to roasting.

Back to the coffee. I have a dish of unroasted green coffee beans, harvested from the plantation and dried out prior to roasting. The beans are emptied into a roaster.

As Peggy explains, proper coffee roasting involves all five senses.

As David Cook explained to me at the Fire Roasted Coffee Company, Peggy reiterated it.  For those “efficient” coffee roasters that profile a bean and then roast it automatically without supervision, there are cues for all five senses that go unobserved.  The bean itself and the environment in which it’s roasted can change and only the human senses can judge when a bean is optimally roasted.

In the above picture, we’ve heard the “first crack”, that point where gas trapped inside the bean has escaped in a snapping sound, expanding the size of the bean.  At that point, you can be sure of a Medium style roast or you can leave the beans to roast further.  Imagine the sound of popcorn starting to pop after it’s been exposed to heat.  Once you hear the “second crack”, you are now burning the coffee’s natural oil to the surface of the bean for the darker roasts from Full City to Italian.  Somewhere in between, I stop mine at City.

Sense of smell tells me the beans are beginning to burn.  Sense of sight shows me the roast style I wanted.  Sense of hearing guided me on checking the bean.  They are now roasted to taste.

Sense of smell tells me the beans are beginning to burn. Sense of sight shows me the roast style I wanted. Sense of hearing guided me on what points to check the bean. They are now roasted to taste.

Once the bean is removed from the heat, it needs to be immediately cooled as heat on the interior of the bean will continue to roast it from the inside.

Once the bean is removed from the heat, it needs to be immediately cooled as heat on the interior of the bean will continue to roast it from the inside. Here for this small batch, we use a fan and stir the beans until sense of touch indicates that they are fully cooled and no longer roasting themselves. Hard to tell here, but house rules dictate that you must hula-dance while stirring the beans.

Not a bad City roast.  By sense of taste, we chewed a bean from the batch to get a sense of how it will taste in the cup.

Not a bad City roast. By sense of taste, we chewed a bean from the batch to get a sense of how it will taste in the cup.

It's official!  I've graduated into the ranks of Peggy's roastmasters.

There you have it, it's official! I've graduated into the ranks of Peggy's roastmasters.

As an amateur home roaster and all-around coffee enthusiast, I had lots of questions and Peggy did a great job answering them.

As an amateur home roaster and all-around coffee enthusiast, I had lots of questions and Peggy did a great job answering them. This picture is taken in their retail store, overlooking one of UCC's three plantations.

The tour was very informative.  If you’re in Kona, I recommend contacting the Ueshima Coffee Corporation.  Check out their website to order a pound of their coffee, and I recommend their Island Select Estate Reserve – what I’m sampling in the picture above.  For a coffee lover, it was great education.