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April
18,2011

How to Recreate France’s Cafe Creme

Author | Marc Wortman

Question: “I lived in France for a year and became hooked on their coffee. I’m trying to recreate it at home and have a cafetiere and Colombian beans ground specifically. But what do they add to the French “cafe creme”? I’ve tried everything – varieties of milk, cream, even creme fraiche and nothing seems to work. Please find an answer for me, it’s driving me crazy!” - Lydia Turner

Answer: Lydia, I love a challenge.  I’ve never been to France but I too have wracked my brain trying to recreate a coffee drink I’ve loved.  In my case, it was to avoid buying an overpriced but extremely tasty drink from a major coffee chain.  So I’ve gone through the same exercise as you, tweaking quantities of the various inputs until you have it exactly right.

So I put on my research hat and got to work.  As you’ve no doubt already noticed, there isn’t a ton of easily accessible information on the Web to explain what exactly the French do to make the Cafe Creme so unique.  The most detailed description I found is that it is coffee served in a large cup with hot cream – the end!

It is often referred to as an espresso drink so if you aren’t using an espresso machine to prepare the coffee, I suggest a dark-roasted coffee bean – coincidentally or not, use a French Roast coffee or what Starbucks refers to as an Espresso Roast.  You can use your conventional drip brewer instead of an espresso machine but at least make your coffee from dark-roasted beans.  An espresso machine is ideal, if you have one.

Next is the cream.  While I wasn’t able to find a recipe for Cafe Creme, I did find a chain advertising their own version of the drink and they emphasized the “espresso flavored cream” that they used.  I believe your secret ingredient might be that the cream itself has been flavored.  To learn how to flavor cream, our friends at About.com outline a simple procedure to make your own cream and to flavor it.  And more good news, they even have a recipe for an espresso flavored cream:

Espresso Whipped Cream
1 cup whipping cream
3 tbs brown sugar
1 tsp vanilla extract
1 tsp espresso powder

If whipped cream is too thick, sub out for a heavy coffee cream instead.  Give it a shot and I’d love to hear back from you whether you were able to recreate that unique taste.

It’s a fun adventure to try and recreate a unique coffee flavor.  Click here to learn more Cafe Mocha and other special coffee recipes.

Categorized In | Brewing Coffee,Serving Coffee

April
14,2011

Profile: Sacramento’s Old Soul Roastery and Bakery

Author | Marc Wortman

Meeting new people in the coffee business continues to fascinate me.  Jason Griest, co-owner of Sacramento, California’s Old Soul Company is no exception.  From my impromptu Sunday night request to meet with him while spending a couple days in Sac, Jason was more than happy to accommodate me the following morning.

I was greeted with the same friendliness at Old Soul that I’ve become used to from coffee roasters. When I ask for Jason, a member of staff points to the stockroom and tells me I’ll find Jason in there.  A stark contrast to the Employees Only signs I’m used to seeing.  Everything at Old Soul is transparent, from the supply of burlap sacks of green coffee to the roasting and packaging operations – it is a slick operation but in an entirely open environment.

After introducing me to Old Soul’s head roaster, Lucky Rodrigues, Jason brews he and I a pot of coffee by French Press.  My choice from whatever they have roasted at the time – I go with one I’ve never had, a Panama Boquete.  We sit outside on a sunny, comfortable California morning and drink fresh-roasted, fresh-ground, fresh-brewed exotic coffee.

Old Soul’s Story

Old Soul’s website tells the story of Jason and his friend Tim’s wine-inspired collaboration.  Old Soul would bring craftsmanship back to Sacramento, Tim as its baker and Jason as its roaster.  They never intended for it to be a retail business – they leased an abandoned warehouse to bake and roast for wholesale customers.  The waft of their work inevitably seeped into nearby windows of locals who would stop in for something fresh.

In Jason’s words, Old Soul became a local speakeasy – without a retail license, Jason and Tim put goods out from whatever they were making for their wholesale customers, and an open jar for customers to make change out of.  What started as a simple system to accommodate a few passers-by started to attract up to 100 people and over $1,000 a day on the old-fashioned honor system.

When they couldn’t avoid the attention anymore, they got the retail licensing they needed, and this is where Old Soul’s story becomes even more inspiring – as they start to outperform giants.

At this point in hearing Old Soul’s history, I ask Jason what coffee the people of Sacramento were drinking prior.  The question is well-timed – local chain Java Time and national chain Starbucks were the main choices in the area.  Old Soul didn’t step up to directly face these Goliaths, but in a much more subtle way, succeeded where the chains failed.  Old Soul did it by applying a local sensitivity and care that separates fresh products from something mass-produced.

In a shuffle of its business, Java City outsourced the management of all of its locations –except the original- to food services company AramarkOld Soul opened their second location on Weatherstone in Sacramento, assuming the lease from that Java City location.  They opened up the transparency of the operation, and today its success rivals that of Old Soul’s original location, and is outperforming Java City’s record in the same location.

When Starbucks shut down 700 outlets two years ago, the mayor of Sacramento Kevin Johnson approached Jason and Tim to assume the lease of what would become Old Soul’s third location.  Today, it does almost twice the business that Starbucks was doing in the same spot.

I felt like I could sum up the conversation with Jason with a lot of similarity from my conversation with Planet Bean’s Bill Barrett.  The local coffee roaster can be more important to an area’s local culture than any chain, even unseating corporate giants by emphasizing sensitivity to local tastes and a personalized care for quality.

Giving Back to the Community

Later that day, Jason and I met again, this time at one of Jason’s “dive bars” also a part of Old Soul’s history.  In the company’s early days and means, Benny’s in Sacramento was the nearby watering hole to wind down after the equivalent of two workdays crammed into each one.  After Jason introduces me to the bartender, he’s served a drink he didn’t order, the hallmark of a regular.

I got to hear about Old Soul’s commitment to the community, this time through endorsement of a reading program for young children in the area.  Jason and I agree that today’s text messaging and Twittering is slowly indumbening today’s youth.  Whether it’s through Fair Trade certification, on-site development projects like those sponsored by the Tim Horton’s chain, or a focus on local success and economics like that of Planet Bean, a sense of community and helping the underdog is the tie that binds all coffee roasters I’ve met to date.

NOTE:  “Indumbening” is not a word, and you can follow me on Twitter by clicking here. :)

Categorized In | Buying Coffee

April
5,2011

Warning: Coffee and Fast Food Don’t Mix

Author | Marc Wortman

JP brought to my attention on Twitter a new medical study out of the University of Guelph, looking at the effects of a combination of fast food and coffee on the human body.  The U of G is located in Ontario, Canada, and the news of their study has been making the international rounds this week.

Rest assured you’ll get a layman’s medical explanation of the study from me, so here goes…

There are two kinds of naturally occurring fats…saturated and non-saturated.  There are health benefits to including non-saturated fats in your diet, like those found in nuts.  But, saturated fats are nasty and harder for the body to process.  Saturated fat has been linked to heart disease, cholesterol levels, and everything else that makes good tasting food bad.  The only thing worse are trans-fats, which are man-made and very difficult for the body to process.

One of the known problems with saturated fats is that when you eat them, it makes it more difficult for the body to remove sugar content from your blood.  After a high-fat meal, a person’s blood-sugar level can potentially jump “to levels similar to those of people at risk for diabetes”.  Aside from the extra work that you need to do to burn the fat that your body stores, this increased blood-sugar level leads to even more problems.

The new study finds that for as difficult as it is for the body to reduce blood-sugar after we ingest a high-fat meal, that process is even more difficult when coffee is consumed.  This applies even hours after the meal.  My thoughts and questions…

- Another great argument not to drink fast-food coffee.  When you stop at the McDonald’s drive-thru, you’re probably getting more than just a cup of their coffee.  But surprisingly, the Egg McMuffin has only 5 grams of saturated fat compared to 13 grams of saturated fat in the Tim Horton’s Breakfast Sandwich.

- Stop eating fast-food.  I’m not happy to hear that there are detrimental effects to drinking coffee, but my first thought is that it makes something bad that much worse.  Cut out the saturated fat so you can properly enjoy a coffee.  We should be limiting our intake of saturated fat anyway.

- The study isn’t clear about whether it’s the caffeine or the coffee that’s the problem.  I’m asking myself this question because if an energy drink cocktail is just as bad, then I think the real lesson is don’t try to artificially alert yourself while you’re eating saturated fats.  The caffeine will offset the sluggishness of a big fatty meal, but with risk to your good health.

I used to follow medical studies related to coffee but I often found them inconclusive or even contradictory with each other.  The last I wrote on coffee and medicine was almost a year ago.

It’s not that I don’t take these studies seriously, it’s just hard to consider a single study credible.  I like to hear it from more than once source.  But having said that, the obesity epidemic is as widely reported as ever…maybe this latest study sheds some light, considering as a society how much coffee we drink and fast food we eat.

Categorized In | Coffee and You,Coffee News