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February
28,2012

My Merry Christmas Chemex!

Author | Marc Wortman

Every Christmas, I hear that I’m difficult to buy for.  And every Christmas, my family and friends prove themselves wrong by getting me amazing gifts.

This past Christmas, my cousins Jeff and Robin bought me the pint-sized Chemex that you see pictured here.  The Chemex was invented in the 40s as an alternative and superior way to make coffee.  How does it work?

Put a paper filter in the top conical section of the pitcher.  Put your ground coffee in the filter.  Slowly and to instruction that comes with the Chemex, pour hot water over the ground coffee.  The brewed coffee drips through the filter and into the base section.  When you’re done, throw away the filter of ground coffee, and pour directly from the pitcher.  The wooden collar keeps you from burning yourself on the now-hot glass.

Just like the drip brewer was an improvement on the percolator that actually sapped flavor by boiling the coffee itself, the Chemex is an improvement on the drip brewer.  It allows you to systematically drip hot water onto the coffee in stages rather than the drip brewer’s constant stream.

The Chemex comes in four sizes.  Robin and Jeff bought me the pint-size model that you see above.  My usual coffee mug (featuring the Incredible Hulk, btw) is also pint-sized so this Chemex is perfect for making a single large coffee when I don’t want to make two or more at once.

Fun trivia: Paul Newman uses a Chemex to make himself coffee in the 1966 movie Harper.

Read: Better Ways to Brew Coffee (further information on the Chemex)
Read: Indian Coffee (I was able to use the Chemex to experiment with a coffee/chicory combination)
Read: Pour-over Brewing Method – the Chemex (must-read if you’re considering buying one for yourself)

Categorized In | Brewing Coffee

February
26,2012

Coffee Beans in the Fish Truck

Author | Marc Wortman

Over lunch yesterday, my friends and I had the always spirited debate about keeping coffee in the freezer.  Coffee is perishable and it’s tastiest when it’s fresh, so naturally people assume it’s a good idea to freeze it when not making any.

The first observation to ever tip me off otherwise was that I’d never seen a freezer in a roastery or cafe.

In fact, I was once told that the drastic change in temperature from freezing to thawed does indeed affect the freshness and flavor of the coffee.

The biggest reason not to store coffee in the fridge or freezer is because coffee naturally absorbs odors from what’s around it.  Those odors will certainly affect the flavor of the coffee that absorbs them.  Your fridge and freezer contains many foods and therefore, many odors. 

The best story I ever heard was from a friend who drives a truck for a living.  He told me that when they were hauling loads of fish, they would throw cheap coffee beans into the back of the truck with the fish!  He doesn’t drink coffee, but he and his fellow drivers knew of coffee’s powerful ability to absorb odors, and used it for stinky loads.  I asked him if it really killed the smell of fish in his truck.  His answer…”kind of”.

Only buy as much coffee at one time as you plan to drink in a week or two.  Do not buy the giant tin of ground coffee because it’s economical.  It’s not just cheap coffee, but it will be stale before you finish it, if it isn’t already stale when you bought it.  Buy whole coffee beans, and grind them right before you brew.  Keep your beans in an opaque airtight container at room temperature.  Learn more about properly Storing Coffee.

Categorized In | Storing Coffee

February
12,2012

Open Letter to Coffee Enthusiast Groups

Author | Marc Wortman

A few weeks ago, I attended my first meeting of a local group of coffee enthusiasts here in Portland, Oregon.  The group is loosely organized, and I had been a member for a few months before  I saw a formally organized event.  I walked away from my first event with this group, happy with the excellent coffee I enjoyed, and with some good coffee conversation.  There are some things I would need to see before taking part in such a meeting again.

Here are my suggestions to coffee enthusiast groups, including my advice if you run such a group or are thinking of starting one in your area.

1. Organization is everything
The organizer of the event didn’t show up.  This wasn’t just odd to me, it was insulting.  If you’re going to organize an event that people are excited to attend, show up for it.  Anybody who attends such an event probably already has some propensity to engaging conversation.  But don’t leave that to chance.  It doesn’t need to be run like a business meeting, but somebody should be there to push friendly conversation along.

2. Involve the roaster
The event was held at Ristretto Roasters in Portland.  I assumed that the roaster would informally act as some kind of host for this event.  I decided I would mention the roaster on Twitter and give them a chance to respond.  Or at the very least, to be aware that a formal coffee enthusiast event was taking place at one of their locations.  Nobody from Ristretto picked up on the tweet.  And nobody working there that day had an inkling that a coffee enthusiast group was meeting there.  By involving the roaster, our event would have had a excellent dimension of education to it.  We’re coffee enthusiasts, surely we have much to learn from a roaster.

Follow me on Twitter for regular coffee news, website updates, and fun discussion.

3. Involve an expert
This may sound like the last piece of advice repeated, but it can be separate.  Have an expert prepared to share something with those that attend.  It doesn’t need to be the owner of the roastery, it could be the organizer.  But, have somebody bring some expertise or a unique perspective to the conversation.  Arrange for a “speaker”.

So, I suppose it’s easy to complain, and another thing altogether to take action.  I haven’t decided if I will proceed with organizing such an event myself.  If I do, I will certainly follow my own advice, starting with showing up, involving the roaster, and having an expert share something with us.  As I continue to meet roasters in Portland, I’ll keep an open mind to a good such environment for local enthusiasts to meet.

Categorized In | Buying Coffee,Coffee News

February
5,2012

Profile: Kobos Coffee

Author | Marc Wortman

I have a personal connection with Kobos Coffee of Portland, Oregon.  I spent a weekend in Portland while deciding whether or not I wanted to move here.  I arrived late one night, and checked in at the Marriott downtown.  I was so excited for the following day’s coffee adventure, that I pushed the vacuum-sealed stuff in my hotel room to the side and took to the streets of Portland.  The closest cafe to the Marriott?…the SW Market Street location of Kobos Coffee.  My first cup of coffee in Portland!

Production Manager Kevin Dibble invited me for a tour of Kobos’ roasting facility on NW Vaughn.

Founded in 1973 by David and Susan Kobos, it is not only older than both Kevin and I, it is a pioneer and stalwart of the coffee scene in Portland.  Only one other roaster has been at it longer.  The result is that their wholesale relationships in the area are entrenched, and the loyalty of their customers speaks volumes.  Kobos has seen so many trends come and go, that Kevin laughed about a 30-year old picture they have of a pourover coffee maker, before it became fashionable to make coffee in this way.

In fact, Kobos unseated Starbucks at every coffee outlet in the Oregon Health and Science University, whose campus as Portland residents know, is virtually a city within a city.  It reminded me of a similar victory of Old Soul in Sacramento, CA who at the mayor’s request, bought and made a success of a closed Starbucks location.

Read: Profile Sacramento’s Old Soul Roastery and Bakery

It’s very telling when a company has been such a directing force in a local market for as long as Kobos.  In short, it means they’re doing something right.  In the world of coffee, it means they’re making good coffee.  In the Portland coffee market, it means they’re making exceptional coffee.  I took home a half-pound of Organic Peruvian coffee that I’m enjoying as I type this.

Lots of unroasted green coffee from around the world.

 

The original Kobos roaster, still operational, and on-hand when the capacity is needed.

 

Kobos' 160-pound roaster. Here, the beans have finished roasting and are in their cooling stage. Without this stage, the heat generated in each bean would continue to roast and burn it.

 

Not a jar of beans, it's a jar of stones extracted from the coffee after it arrives at Kobos so that you don't find it in your bag of coffee.

 

A mini roaster for sampling batches of new coffee so that Kobos can determine whether they want to sell it, and how they will set its roaster settings for it.
 
A special thanks to Kevin and the Kobos coffee team! A great and informative tour.
Categorized In | Buying Coffee

February
1,2012

Coffee from the Grocery Store

Author | Marc Wortman

Question: “Hey you said not to buy whole coffee beans from grocery stores but what if they sell starbucks whole coffee beans would that be ok? or should I go to starbucks and buy from them?” - Isaac Shrader

Answer:
This is an excellent question, and as Isaac will attest, it took me a little while to properly answer it.  In fact each time I tried, the scope of answering the question got more and more out of hand.  Like any of us, I used to buy all of my coffee pre-ground from the grocery store.  I’ll answer this question with another question: what makes coffee taste good?

Like anything perishable, coffee tastes best when it’s fresh.  Wherever you buy coffee, it’s at the end of a supply chain that started in a coffee growing country, and ends where you buy it.  The care shown at each stage throughout the supply chain will determine how fresh the coffee, and how good it will taste in your cup.

Before Fire Roasted Coffee Company started selling their coffee through the local grocery chain Loblaws, I would have never suggested that you buy coffee from any grocery store.  Better that you find a local roaster who is roasting small batches and very recently before you buy it – this is as fresh (and delicious) as it gets.  However, by making local supply arrangements, Fire Roasted was able to ensure freshness for customers and the continuation of its strong name and reputation.  They did it by their proximity and agreement with the grocery store.

I took a trip to my own local grocery store to see if whole bean coffee sold there provides any indication of how recently the coffee was roasted.  Starbucks coffee sold in either grocery stores or through their retail outlets does not indicate when exactly it was roasted.  That means you should be able to do better, either by buying from a local roaster or buying coffee from a grocery store where the same care has gone into freshness as Fire Roasted Coffee arranged with its wholesale customer.

This image is of a coffee mass-roasted locally in Portland, Oregon and distributed to grocery stores in the general area.  It’s considered fresh for the same reason that Fire Roasted could ensure the same with Loblaws.  I took this picture in January 2012 and the label indicates that it’s best sold nine months later.  The coffee is vacuum-sealed so I assume it doesn’t get any more stale that it was when sealed, provided you don’t open the packaging and let air in.  I’ve heard some criticism of vacuum-sealing affecting coffee freshness, and you won’t find local roasters sealing their fresh-roasted coffee in any way before it’s sold. 

I found this one even more interesting.  I’m a fan of Peets coffee, and here, they are clearly trying to ensure a quality standard to the coffee they sell in grocery stores.  They want to ensure that coffee is not sold any later than 90 days after it was roasted, but the same label shows it was roasted on September 19, 2011.  I also took this picture in January 2012, past the 90-day mark.  In other words, Peets has set a standard, but its grocery store partner isn’t monitoring or following it!

Isaac, a long-winded answer to your question.  Coffee flavor comes from coffee freshness.  Coffee starts to go stale as soon as it’s been roasted from it’s original green form.  Don’t buy coffee if you don’t know when it was roasted.  And, don’t buy coffee that wasn’t roasted recently.  I wish I could point you to a grocery store that handles coffee properly.  Coffee sold at a Starbucks outlet is a better option than the grocery store because it at least came direct from some centralized Starbucks roasting facility.  But you will find even this is no substitute for coffee purchased from your local roaster, or any other source that can show you that it was recently roasted.

Categorized In | Buying Coffee