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March
20,2012

Introduction to Roasting Coffee

Author | Marc Wortman

I recently attended a class at Mr. Green Beans in Portland, Oregon.  I had signed up on my first visit there, and was anxious for the refresher, an Introduction to Home Roasting.

Read: Profile Mr. Green Beans

I’ve been dabbling in roasting my own coffee at home for a few years now.  The coffee bean is the seed of the coffee cherry grown in hot, high-altitude parts of the world, and is green and smaller in size before it’s roasted.  There are many reasons to roast your own coffee, other than it’s way cool to do it.  Coffee is at its freshest right after it’s been roasted, so when you roast it yourself, you’re guaranteed a very fresh and flavorful cup of coffee.

 

The class costs $20.  For the time and expertise of owner Trevin Miller for almost two hours, and a bag of unroasted coffee to take home, that’s pittance.  

The other elements of a home roasting class:

- Five samples of coffee throughout its roasting stages, from green to dark, so that you can see how it changes throughout the process.
- A small bowl of chaff, the “skin” that flakes off of coffee as you roast it.  This is a natural by-product of roasting, so important to understand.
- A sealed jar of the same coffee that Trevin roasts throughout the class, so you can appreciate the final product.
- Takehome instructions so you remember what you learned.
- A copy of Roast Magazine, the industry’s leading trade journal.

Eleven of us showed up for a class that seats twelve maximum, a great turnout!  Trevin walked us through the various methods of home roasting, from the simple frying pan still used traditionally in Ethiopia to roast coffee.  To the popcorn popper, whose core technology is the same as those used in more advanced home roasting machines – the science after all is heat and movement of the beans, the same way we pop corn.

I think it’s always worth going back to school.  Take advantage of any coffee roaster or home roasting provider in your area that provides such instruction, so you can see it for yourself.

Since I never formally learned home roasting  until now, here were some great takeaways from the class:

- There are origin characteristics to the coffee bean depending on where and how it was grown.  Then there are roast characteristics that impact flavor from the roasting process itself.  The darker the coffee, the less of its origin characteristics you are enjoying.

- After you roast coffee, let it breathe for 1-4 hours.  There is outgassing of CO2 taking place before the beans start to expire due to exposure to oxygen.  If you seal them at this stage, you’re sealing them with the CO2 that hasn’t properly outgassed yet.

- You have to cool your beans after they roast.  Otherwise, the heat inside the bean will continue to roast it even after you’ve shut down the process.  I knew this, but was throwing the beans into the freezer to cool them down.  It’s a dramatic temperature change, and coffee will absorb the odors of what’s in the freezer.  All I need is a simple metal collander in which to shake the beans until they’ve cooled.

Categorized In | Buying Coffee

March
16,2012

The 7 Golden Rules of Good Coffee

Author | Marc Wortman

My brother was telling a friend about this website.  His friend challenged whether all the extra work that goes into making great coffee was worth it.  My brother’s response was that it takes a surprising little extra work, and I’ve emphasized the same here.  It takes only little steps to make big impact on the flavor in your cup. 

And once you’ve had great coffee, you’ll wonder why you drank bad coffee for so long.

When my brother told me this story, I realized it was time to revisit the site’s Golden Rules of Good Coffee.  That page of the site had grown organically over time, adding updates as they came to mind as important.  It was time to make it concise.  Below are the Seven Golden Rules of Good Coffee.  Visit the Golden Rules of Good Coffee for more elaboration on each rule.

I say it on that page, and will say it again here.  How many of these rules that you follow is entirely up to you.  The more you follow, the more you will notice a difference in freshness and flavor in your coffee.  If you ever doubt it, go to 7-Eleven afterwards and buy a coffee there.  It will help you appreciate the importance of these little tips.

Golden Rule #1: Get your coffee from a professional roaster

Golden Rule #2: Buy your coffee every 1-2 week

Golden Rule #3: Buy your coffee in whole bean form

Golden Rule #4: Use a burr grinder

Golden Rule #5: Keep your coffee beans in an airtight container at room temperature

Golden Rule #6: Invest in a French Press or a good drip brewer – your gear is as important as your coffee

Golden Rule #7: Keep everything clean

 

Visit the Golden Rules of Good Coffee for more elaboration on each rule.

March
10,2012

The Future of Fair Trade Coffee

Author | Marc Wortman

No matter what they tell you in Seattle, the coffee capital of North America is Portland, Oregon.  Do a search of coffee companies and cafes in the greater Portland area, there are almost 7,000 of them.  And so, it struck me that in eight months of living here, I haven’t seen the Fair Trade logo, not even once.

Fair Trade is a certification program where you as a consumer are assured that for spending just a little more, the farmer will receive a fair price for his product.  The belief is that by free trade economics, farming communities will never make enough money to invest in the infrastructure of their communities, and get out of the cycle of poverty they are stuck in.  Meanwhile, we enjoy the amazing product that they give us.

Most of what I know of Fair Trade coffee, I’ve learned from the coffee roasters I’ve met, and from a book called Brewing Justice, a history of Fair Trade and its struggle.  One of the greatest threats to Fair Trade’s identity has been the participation of Starbucks, believed by many to simply be paying lip service to the cause.

Learn more about: Brewing Justice: Fair Trade Coffee, Sustainability, and Survival

I always get more than I bargained for when I meet people in the coffee business, and my recent visit to Kobos Coffee was no exception.

I asked Production Manager Kevin Dibble why I hadn’t seen the Fair Trade logo since I arrived in Portland.  He smiled a very telling smile, considered how to answer, and then said, “Yeah, we used to see that around here a lot in the 90s.” – read: yeah, that used to be trendy around here, but isn’t anymore.

Kobos Coffee is the one of the longest-standing coffee roasters in Portland.  Surely if there is a scribe of trends that have come and gone in the world of coffee, they’ve lived it.  I asked Kevin what Kobos did instead to promote sustainability.  They focus without the need for certification, on ensuring three things from where their coffee is grown: the economics of that area, the environmental impact of how it is grown, and social change.

“I needed to give incentive to the coffee farmers by paying a premium price for the best coffee beans.  I got great coffee, and they got the means to further their livelihoods.”David Kobos

When coffee cost pennies per pound, founder and owner David ventured that his business could revolve around paying $2 per pound, and promoting sustainability to his customers.  David opened his first shop in 1973.  Fair Trade USA was founded in 1998.

Sustainability is promoted in many different ways now.  The Fair Trade movement does much good, and stands for doing the right thing (paying a little more for better quality that improves the lives of the people that make it possible).  If Portland is the coffee capital of North America, and Fair Trade was considered a fad here, I wonder what other alternatives to promoting sustainability will take up the battle against free trade economics.

March
6,2012

Arabica vs. Robusta for Dummies

Author | Marc Wortman

Question: “When did McDonald’s stop using Columbian coffee and switch to Arabic beans?” - anonymous

Arabica coffee is often confused with Arabia.  If you go back far enough, the original tree of this species did originate in Yemen but has since found ideal growing conditions across the “coffee belt” that is the Equator.  There are predominantly two species of coffee tree, Arabica and Robusta.  When a company boasts of serving 100% Arabica coffee, they aren’t making reference to coffee from the Arabic world, but to this species of coffee. 

While Arabica coffee does contain less caffeine, it is recognized as superior coffee.  As a rule of thumb, when you find a roaster you trust, they don’t generally need to tell you that their coffee is 100% Arabica, it just is.  When a company boasts of serving 100% Arabica, it more than likely is but I would question the place where you’re buying it, that this claim even needs to be made.  When you don’t know enough about where you’re buying your coffee and they don’t make this claim, you may very well be getting Robusta coffee.

  • Read: Coffees of Ecuador – When friends returned recently from Ecuador with coffee they had bought from a local vendor, I noticed that the packaging didn’t specify the species of coffee.  I made the assumption in that case that it must be Robusta, until I researched where the coffee was grown and learned that coffee grown in that part of Ecuador is indeed Arabica.

Arabica’s red-headed stepbrother is the species known as Robusta, not generally sought after in terms of coffee quality.  It contains more caffeine.  When I first heard this, I felt like that would make it superior, but don’t be fooled.  If coffee helps you stay alert and concentrate, you’re getting enough caffeine from Arabica coffee.  When you buy a cup of coffee at 7-Eleven and they refer to “Truckers’ Blend” or some other “super-caffeine” coffee, it is likely Robusta

Robusta is cheaper to produce.  For that reason, it is the coffee generally used in instant coffees and anywhere else where “filler” is used.  It’s a larger discussion to get into, but when Vietnam received international aid to prop up its economy, it got into coffee.  Its growing conditions are ideal, but it grows primarily Robusta coffee and so much of it, that it is now the #2 producer in the world after Brazil.  One of the unfortunate consequences has been a flooding of the global coffee supply with this cheap grade of coffee, driving down prices for everybody, even those growing the finer coffees that we drink.

If you’ve found a local roaster you trust, they are probably selling you Arabica coffee (not to be confused by Arabia, except in origin).  If you’re not sure, ask.  You will find Arabica to be a higher-quality, better-tasting coffee.

 

Categorized In | Buying Coffee

March
5,2012

What Does a Bad Roaster Do?

Author | Marc Wortman

A year ago, I interviewed Bill Barrett of Planet Bean Coffee in Guelph, Ontario.  What started as a profile of the company’s history and mission turned into several posts, and I still think back to that interview today.

Read: Profile Planet Bean Coffee

That day, I decided to ask Bill an unconventional question.  Instead of my usual questions regarding the proper care that we should expect from a good roaster, I asked him what a bad roaster does.  Here’s what three things he had to say…

1) According to Bill, a bad roaster assumes the same characteristics in a particular coffee from lot to lot.  That roaster does not properly profile beans as unique before roasting, so that he can make the most of its unique properties.  Roasting becomes automatic rather than precise, and the roaster loses sight of the uniqueness of lots, treating beans the same.  In my first meeting at Fire Roasted Coffee a year earlier in London Ontario, owner Dave Cook made the same remark.  Ask your local roaster how they profile the beans that arrive in their roasteries.  Get a sense of whether beans are roasted to standard by lot, or mass-roasted to pre-determined settings.

Read: Profile Fire Roasted Coffee

2) Now, remember that “bad” was my choice of words, not Bill’s.  He went on to say that such a roaster is too involved in expanding rather than staying local.  Bill is a big believer in the role of the roaster in the local economy, and the ability of that economy to sustain itself locally.  The further it travels, the more freshness the coffee loses.  Expanding on that, the local roaster can have fun with blends that suit tastes in his market.  Find a local roaster that lives and breathes their community, rather than something mass-produced for everybody in the country.  I found the model of this when I interviewed Jason Griest of Old Soul in Sacramento, California.

Read: Profile Old Soul Roastery

3) Finally, a bad roaster isn’t raising awareness in his community of the corelation between consumer behavior and the possible benefits to farmers, their families, their society, and its economic infrastructure.  If you like the coffee that these communities provide for you, do your small part to sustain it and even help it thrive.  It costs little extra, and makes a big difference.  Good roasters raise awareness at the local level, “change the world in little ways”. 

Bill Barrett: “It’s key to have peers that share your values.”

 

Categorized In | Buying Coffee

March
2,2012

Profile: Mr. Green Beans

Author | Marc Wortman

A few years back, I received an e-mail from a guest to the site, asking me what I thought of roasting coffee beans at home and whether it was worth the trouble.  I was embarrassed.  I’d never heard of it at the time. 

What followed was a long process of educating myself on home roasting, the work and the reward.  That ongoing adventure brought me to Portland’s Mr. Green Beans.

Click here to Ask Marc anything about coffee.

Mr. Green Beans was opened two years ago by Trevin and Ginny Miller in the Mississippi District of Portland, Oregon.  To the best of my knowledge, it is the only company in the area, catering to the gradually growing awareness of buying green unroasted coffee beans and roasting them at home.

The Millers are do-it-yourselfers by nature, which combined with a love for the social qualities of coffee, translates into a business that helps build awareness and teach people the value in doing something new for themselves.  That something is the fun of taking a natural step back in the coffee process, and become acquainted with the roasting process.

Trevin explained to me that the Portland area is a mix of people who are familiar with -and equipped for- home roasting, and looking for somebody to help support that, and those to whom it’s new.  Mr. Green Beans takes the time to educate both sides of it.  This month, I will be attending one of their regular Introduction to Roasting classes.  Following that, an advanced class. 

And so, to answer the question I was asked years ago…if you love coffee, experiment with home roasting.  Coffee really starts to go stale after it’s been roasted, so home roasting allows you to keep unroasted green beans on-hand that won’t go stale in a week or two, as roasted coffee does. 

You also get the chance to truly prepare your own coffee to taste.  I’ve come to enjoy a combination of having coffee on-hand from great local roasters that I’ve come to rely on, and green beans to roast for myself on occasion.

Click to visit Mr. Green Beans website.

Trevin Miller helps a customer that is buying green beans for the first time, and will be roasting them himself at home in a frying pan.

 

 
Categorized In | Buying Coffee

February
28,2012

My Merry Christmas Chemex!

Author | Marc Wortman

Every Christmas, I hear that I’m difficult to buy for.  And every Christmas, my family and friends prove themselves wrong by getting me amazing gifts.

This past Christmas, my cousins Jeff and Robin bought me the pint-sized Chemex that you see pictured here.  The Chemex was invented in the 40s as an alternative and superior way to make coffee.  How does it work?

Put a paper filter in the top conical section of the pitcher.  Put your ground coffee in the filter.  Slowly and to instruction that comes with the Chemex, pour hot water over the ground coffee.  The brewed coffee drips through the filter and into the base section.  When you’re done, throw away the filter of ground coffee, and pour directly from the pitcher.  The wooden collar keeps you from burning yourself on the now-hot glass.

Just like the drip brewer was an improvement on the percolator that actually sapped flavor by boiling the coffee itself, the Chemex is an improvement on the drip brewer.  It allows you to systematically drip hot water onto the coffee in stages rather than the drip brewer’s constant stream.

The Chemex comes in four sizes.  Robin and Jeff bought me the pint-size model that you see above.  My usual coffee mug (featuring the Incredible Hulk, btw) is also pint-sized so this Chemex is perfect for making a single large coffee when I don’t want to make two or more at once.

Fun trivia: Paul Newman uses a Chemex to make himself coffee in the 1966 movie Harper.

Read: Better Ways to Brew Coffee (further information on the Chemex)
Read: Indian Coffee (I was able to use the Chemex to experiment with a coffee/chicory combination)
Read: Pour-over Brewing Method – the Chemex (must-read if you’re considering buying one for yourself)

Categorized In | Brewing Coffee

February
26,2012

Coffee Beans in the Fish Truck

Author | Marc Wortman

Over lunch yesterday, my friends and I had the always spirited debate about keeping coffee in the freezer.  Coffee is perishable and it’s tastiest when it’s fresh, so naturally people assume it’s a good idea to freeze it when not making any.

The first observation to ever tip me off otherwise was that I’d never seen a freezer in a roastery or cafe.

In fact, I was once told that the drastic change in temperature from freezing to thawed does indeed affect the freshness and flavor of the coffee.

The biggest reason not to store coffee in the fridge or freezer is because coffee naturally absorbs odors from what’s around it.  Those odors will certainly affect the flavor of the coffee that absorbs them.  Your fridge and freezer contains many foods and therefore, many odors. 

The best story I ever heard was from a friend who drives a truck for a living.  He told me that when they were hauling loads of fish, they would throw cheap coffee beans into the back of the truck with the fish!  He doesn’t drink coffee, but he and his fellow drivers knew of coffee’s powerful ability to absorb odors, and used it for stinky loads.  I asked him if it really killed the smell of fish in his truck.  His answer…”kind of”.

Only buy as much coffee at one time as you plan to drink in a week or two.  Do not buy the giant tin of ground coffee because it’s economical.  It’s not just cheap coffee, but it will be stale before you finish it, if it isn’t already stale when you bought it.  Buy whole coffee beans, and grind them right before you brew.  Keep your beans in an opaque airtight container at room temperature.  Learn more about properly Storing Coffee.

Categorized In | Storing Coffee

February
12,2012

Open Letter to Coffee Enthusiast Groups

Author | Marc Wortman

A few weeks ago, I attended my first meeting of a local group of coffee enthusiasts here in Portland, Oregon.  The group is loosely organized, and I had been a member for a few months before  I saw a formally organized event.  I walked away from my first event with this group, happy with the excellent coffee I enjoyed, and with some good coffee conversation.  There are some things I would need to see before taking part in such a meeting again.

Here are my suggestions to coffee enthusiast groups, including my advice if you run such a group or are thinking of starting one in your area.

1. Organization is everything
The organizer of the event didn’t show up.  This wasn’t just odd to me, it was insulting.  If you’re going to organize an event that people are excited to attend, show up for it.  Anybody who attends such an event probably already has some propensity to engaging conversation.  But don’t leave that to chance.  It doesn’t need to be run like a business meeting, but somebody should be there to push friendly conversation along.

2. Involve the roaster
The event was held at Ristretto Roasters in Portland.  I assumed that the roaster would informally act as some kind of host for this event.  I decided I would mention the roaster on Twitter and give them a chance to respond.  Or at the very least, to be aware that a formal coffee enthusiast event was taking place at one of their locations.  Nobody from Ristretto picked up on the tweet.  And nobody working there that day had an inkling that a coffee enthusiast group was meeting there.  By involving the roaster, our event would have had a excellent dimension of education to it.  We’re coffee enthusiasts, surely we have much to learn from a roaster.

Follow me on Twitter for regular coffee news, website updates, and fun discussion.

3. Involve an expert
This may sound like the last piece of advice repeated, but it can be separate.  Have an expert prepared to share something with those that attend.  It doesn’t need to be the owner of the roastery, it could be the organizer.  But, have somebody bring some expertise or a unique perspective to the conversation.  Arrange for a “speaker”.

So, I suppose it’s easy to complain, and another thing altogether to take action.  I haven’t decided if I will proceed with organizing such an event myself.  If I do, I will certainly follow my own advice, starting with showing up, involving the roaster, and having an expert share something with us.  As I continue to meet roasters in Portland, I’ll keep an open mind to a good such environment for local enthusiasts to meet.

Categorized In | Buying Coffee,Coffee News

February
5,2012

Profile: Kobos Coffee

Author | Marc Wortman

I have a personal connection with Kobos Coffee of Portland, Oregon.  I spent a weekend in Portland while deciding whether or not I wanted to move here.  I arrived late one night, and checked in at the Marriott downtown.  I was so excited for the following day’s coffee adventure, that I pushed the vacuum-sealed stuff in my hotel room to the side and took to the streets of Portland.  The closest cafe to the Marriott?…the SW Market Street location of Kobos Coffee.  My first cup of coffee in Portland!

Production Manager Kevin Dibble invited me for a tour of Kobos’ roasting facility on NW Vaughn.

Founded in 1973 by David and Susan Kobos, it is not only older than both Kevin and I, it is a pioneer and stalwart of the coffee scene in Portland.  Only one other roaster has been at it longer.  The result is that their wholesale relationships in the area are entrenched, and the loyalty of their customers speaks volumes.  Kobos has seen so many trends come and go, that Kevin laughed about a 30-year old picture they have of a pourover coffee maker, before it became fashionable to make coffee in this way.

In fact, Kobos unseated Starbucks at every coffee outlet in the Oregon Health and Science University, whose campus as Portland residents know, is virtually a city within a city.  It reminded me of a similar victory of Old Soul in Sacramento, CA who at the mayor’s request, bought and made a success of a closed Starbucks location.

Read: Profile Sacramento’s Old Soul Roastery and Bakery

It’s very telling when a company has been such a directing force in a local market for as long as Kobos.  In short, it means they’re doing something right.  In the world of coffee, it means they’re making good coffee.  In the Portland coffee market, it means they’re making exceptional coffee.  I took home a half-pound of Organic Peruvian coffee that I’m enjoying as I type this.

Lots of unroasted green coffee from around the world.

 

The original Kobos roaster, still operational, and on-hand when the capacity is needed.

 

Kobos' 160-pound roaster. Here, the beans have finished roasting and are in their cooling stage. Without this stage, the heat generated in each bean would continue to roast and burn it.

 

Not a jar of beans, it's a jar of stones extracted from the coffee after it arrives at Kobos so that you don't find it in your bag of coffee.

 

A mini roaster for sampling batches of new coffee so that Kobos can determine whether they want to sell it, and how they will set its roaster settings for it.
 
A special thanks to Kevin and the Kobos coffee team! A great and informative tour.
Categorized In | Buying Coffee
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